$30 DIY Sunfish Trailer

I finally got around to building a trailer for my Sunfish and I only spent about
$30. I will admit that I started with a Harbor Freight 4' x 8' foldable utility trailer that I think I paid $299 for a couple of years ago. This build should only take you about 1 hour and should only cost you about $30 in parts assuming you all ready have the utility trailer. You could easily adapt this for many other trailers out there.



Here are the parts:

1. 4: 2" x 4" x 16" treated pine
2. 4: 2" x 4" x 6" (actually doesn't really matter but I went with 6")
3. 4 stainless steel bolts 3/8" x 2 1/2" plus washer and lock washer.
5. 4 angles (you can find these in the lumber section of your hardware store)
6. 14' of 2" flat or tubular webbing. You can find this at most outdoor stores,
like REI. If I could readily find 3" webbing I would probably go with that.
7. 32 3" deck screws or similar outdoor wood screw. (you could also use bolts and washers)

That should only cost you about $30.

It's almost self explanatory how to build it and there are probably better ways to do it.

Here are the basics.
1. Install the 16" 2x4's into the side of the trailer. There should be 4 2x4
holders around the trailer for building a trailer fence, etc.

This picture shows the 16" 2x4 installed and bolted down. You can also see the 6" piece of lumber all ready drilled on.

2. Mark the holes for the bolts.
3. Remove the 2x4's and then drill the hole for the 3/8" bolt.
4. Replace the 2x4's and go ahead and bolt them down. You want them secure and
in place for the next steps.
5. You should go ahead and install the angle (see the pics). The angle is just
good security so that the 2x4's don't lean inwards. They act as a brake. So the
angle goes inside of the 2x4 and rests against the trailer. I only screwed them
down to the 2x4 as I didn't want to screw them down to the bed of the trailer. I
use the trailer for hauling other things. But if you only use the trailer for
your sunfish you may want to screw it down.

Here you can see the angle at the bottom of the lumber and on the inside resting on the bed of the trailer.

6. Run the webbing from the top of one 2x4 to the other one on the other side of
the trailer. Use a staple gun to secure it in place for now.You want it fairly
snug but not taught. A slight sag is what you are looking for.

Here's a pic from under the boat so you can see the webbing running across.

7. Take the 6" piece of 2x4 and clamp it down ON THE OUTSIDE of the 16" 2x4 so
the webbing is running in between the two pieces. If you do it on the inside of the trailer your sunfish will hit the blocks and that is not good. Your webbing should extend to
the bottom of the 6" block. Now pre-drill holes and then take your favorite 3"
outdoor deck screws and screw the block to the 16" piece of 2x4. Make sure you
screw about 4-5 screws straight down the center of the webbing. You want to be
sure that doesn't go anywhere! Repeat that all the way around the trailer 3 more
times.

That's it. Super fast. Extremely secure and very stable. You can actually carry your boat upside down or right side up. Totally depends on your preference. You could lower it a little bit. Maybe only use 12" 2x4? I chose to leave some working room underneath to carry other stuff.

By using the webbing you really will minimize any potential damage that you could cause your boat while transporting it. This setup is so cheap and easy that I'll probably just replace it every couple of years to make sure nothing is wearing down or out. Webbing is notoriously bad in sunlight but should last at least a couple of years. I store my trailer in the garage so I'm not worried about daily wear and tear.

I am also installing some PVC tubing and I'm going to attach that to the trailer to go under the boat to keep my mast and spars. I'll also have room under the boat for a cooler, chairs, and other lake/beach/dog stuff. I'll probably figure something out for the rudder and dagger board as well. I'll post that when I get to it.

Enjoy.
Jim